A Foxy Take on the Classics
Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie
Yann Couvreur is one of my favorite pâtissier. But if I am completely honest, I am more often disappointed here than anywhere else I shop for pâtisseries. And that is not because I don’t love everything I get here. I do. It is because sometimes I don’t want to plan ahead or get there early. I just want to walk in and get what I want. Which is often a slice of Vanilla Flan. Called Flan à la Vanille Bleue de la Réunion, it is made with the exquisite blue vanilla from the French island of Réunion. Honestly it is the BEST FLAN EVER. But here’s the thing. The shop is totally into volume control. They do not want to make more than they can sell each day. They have no intention of selling anything 1/2 price the next day. They make enough to fill the orders received the night before plus a few more. And that’s it. Just enough. Or sometimes, not quite enough. But if I am disciplined enough to plan ahead for my sweet tooth’s very legitimate cravings for the absolute best, there is no disappointment. Click and collect. You order and pay in advance. Then you show up and pick up. You are not disappointed.
I have already written about the galette des rois (Figure 1) that I had the good sense to order ahead this January. For my birthday this year, my kids ordered a few treats for me. As they were perusing the offerings online, my son saw a pastrami sandwich and went for it. It was called ‘HotFox NYC, (Figure 2) (I’ll explain the name in a moment). I was so glad he did. Pastrami on puff pastry with old fashioned mustard, marinated onions, cheddar cheese, parsley and cress from Goa (a specialty of this Indian state?). Not exactly traditional, but definitely delicious. Like everything else. And not too big. So I could polish it off and still sample the sweets my daughter so wisely chose. Amongst which was an Az’Teck tart, creamy chocolate mousse with flecks of fleur de sel in a cake-like chocolate biscuit, with chocolate streusel topping. (Figure 3) And speaking of cakes, I bought the Isatis one time. (Figure 4) A vanilla cake bathed in vanilla syrup, studded with caramelized pecans, white chocolate icing. The vanilla syrup kept the cake moist. I enjoy slivers for a week.
Figure 2. HotFox NYC (the middle one), Yann Couvreur
Figure 3. Az’Teck chocolate tart, Yann Couvreur
Figure 4. Isatis, Vanilla Loaf Cake, Yann Couvreur
And what about the packaging, I hear you asking. Turquoise, gold and white. Boxes and bags. Decorated with running foxes. (Figure 5) Why foxes ? Well, according to the young and handsome Monsieur Couvreur, foxes are wild and free like he is and also like him, they are rouquin (redheads). As an aside, Couvreur also makes chocolates, dark, milk, white, in the shape of sleeping foxes, all curled up. (Figure 6) Check it out: Yann Couvreur. You’ll be glad you did !
Figure 5. Packaging, Yann Couvreur, personal (partial) collection, Beverly Held
Figure 6. Dark Chocolate Sleeping Foxes, Yann Couvreur
Copyright © 2021 Beverly Held, Ph.D. All rights reserved
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